Bootlegged Baking: The History of Fruitcake Prohibition
Fruitcake: the very mention of it can stir up a whirlwind of emotions. Some cherish its dense, fruity goodness, while others cringe at its mere sight. Yet, amidst this divisive dessert, a curious chapter in culinary history emerged – the Prohibition of Fruitcake.
The Rise of Fruitcake
Centuries ago, fruitcake was a revered treat, a symbol of celebration and opulence. Laden with candied fruits, nuts, and soaked in spirits, it was a holiday staple cherished by many. However, as time progressed, its popularity waned, and by the early 20th century, fruitcake had become more of a punchline than a delicacy.
The Prohibition Era
In an unexpected turn, fruitcake found itself under scrutiny during the Prohibition era in the United States. As alcohol faced strict restrictions, fruitcake, due to its boozy nature (often soaked in rum or brandy), came under suspicion. Authorities viewed it as a potential loophole to sneak forbidden spirits into homes and gatherings.
The Prohibition’s Impact
The once-beloved dessert faced an unexpected backlash. Bakeries were raided, recipes were altered to omit alcohol, and fruitcake, the innocent victim, was suddenly at the center of a culinary controversy.
Bootlegged Fruitcakes
As with any prohibition, there were those who dared to rebel. Secret recipes were whispered among friends, clandestine batches were made in hidden kitchens, and fruitcake speakeasies—yes, they existed—popped up in dark corners, catering to those unwilling to let go of their beloved, spirited confection.
The Fruitcake Black Market
Underground markets for alcohol had their fruitcake counterparts. People would gather in hushed tones, exchanging recipes and covertly trading contraband fruitcakes infused with the forbidden spirits, evading the authorities’ watchful eyes.
The Repeal and Redemption
Just as the Prohibition on alcohol was repealed, fruitcake emerged from its dark days. Bakeries reintroduced the original recipes, proudly infusing them with spirits once more. The public, relieved from the fruitcake embargo, embraced it once again, albeit with a newfound sense of rebellion and nostalgia.
Modern-day Fruitcake
Today, fruitcake stands as a testament to resilience. While its popularity may fluctuate, there’s no denying its enduring presence during festive seasons. Contemporary versions boast diverse flavors, catering to various dietary preferences, ensuring that even the staunchest fruitcake critic might find a version they enjoy.
Conclusion
The Prohibition of Fruitcake was a peculiar chapter in culinary history. It transformed a once-beloved dessert into a symbol of defiance, sparking clandestine baking operations and creating a fervor for the forbidden. Yet, like any resilient creation, fruitcake endured, emerging stronger and more diverse than ever.
So, the next time you encounter a fruitcake, consider its tumultuous past. Behind its candied fruits and nuts lies a tale of rebellion, prohibition, and a triumphant return to grace—one slice at a time.
Best Fruitcake Recipe
Equipment
- 2 Loaf Pans 8×4 inch
- Silicone Spatulas
- Unbleached Cheesecloth
Ingredients
Soaked Fruit Mixture
- 1 1/4 Cups Dark Raisins
- 1 1/4 Cups Golden Raisins
- 2 Cups Mixed unsweetened dried fruit, chopped (note: I like to use equal parts peaches and apricots. Pears or apples are other great options!)
- 1 Cup Dried unsweetened black figs, chopped
- 1 Cup Dried unsweetened tart cherries, chopped
- 3/4 Cup Dried unsweetened prunes, chopped
- 3/4 Cup Dark Rum
Fruitcake Ingredients
- 1 1/2 Cups Unbleached All-Purpose Flour
- 1/2 Tsp Baking Powder
- 1 Tsp Ground Cinnamon
- 1 Tsp Ground Ginger
- 1/4 Tsp Ground Nutmeg
- 1 Tsp Kosher Salt
- 1 Stick Unsalted Butter Softened
- 3/4 Cup Light Brown Sugar
- 5 Large Eggs Room Temp
- 1 Tbsp Fresh Grated Lemon Zest
- 1 Tbsp Fresh Grated Orange Zest
- 1/2 Cup Freshly Squeezed Orange Juice
- 1 Granny Smith Apple Peeled and Coarsely Grated
- 3/4 Cup Slivered almonds (or chopped pecans or walnuts)
- 3 Tbsp Finely Diced Crystallized Ginger
- One Batch Soaked Fruit Mixture See Section Above
- 2/3 Cup Chopped Bittersweet Chocolate or Dark Chocolate Chips Optional
For Storage:
- Medium Sherry or Triple Sec For Soaking
Decorative Glaze (Optional):
- 1/4 Cup Apricot Preserves
- 1/4 Cup Water
- Whole Pecans For Garnish
Instructions
- The Day Before Baking: Combine the dried fruit in a large mixing bowl. Add the dark rum, cover, and allow the mixture to soak at room temperature for a minimum of 12 hours, or ideally 24 hours prior to preparing the fruit cake batter.
- Prepare the Fruitcake: Preheat the oven to 300°F (150°C) with a rack in the center position. Set aside two 8×4-inch All Clad Pro-Release Bakeware Loaf Pans. If using these pans, you do not need to line or grease the pans prior to adding the batter.Equipment Note: This fruitcake can also be prepared using 9×5-inch loaf pans. If using other types of pans, lightly grease and line with parchment paper.
- In a medium mixing bowl, whisk together the all purpose flour, baking powder, spices, and salt. Set aside.
- In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, cream the softened butter and light brown sugar together over medium-high speed for 3 minutes, or until light and fluffy. Reduce speed to medium and add the eggs one at a time, beating just until each egg is incorporated. The mixture will look slightly broken, that’s ok.
- Over low speed, slowly add the flour mixture until just absorbed. Remove the bowl from the stand mixer. Add the lemon zest, orange zest, fresh orange juice, grated apple, slivered almonds, diced candied ginger, soaked dried fruit mixture (along with any liquid if it hasn’t already been absorbed), and chocoate (if using).Stir mixture with a large spatula, scraping the edges and bottom of the bowl several times, until all of the ingredients are evenly incorporated. It is a very thick, fruit heavy mixture.
- Transfer and divide the batter evenly among the loaf pans. Use an offset spatula to smooth the batter into an even layer. Set the loaf pans on the center rack, several inches apart from one another. Bake – rotating the pans halfway – for 75 to 90 minutes or until the batter is set and the tops are golden brown. The edges of the cake may also start to pull away slightly from the edges of the pan. Remove from the oven and place on a rack to cool completely before removing from the pans.
- Storing and Aging: Once the cake has cooled, carefully remove the cakes from the loaf pans and set upright. Soak two large pieces of cheesecloth in medium sherry or triple sec (*they should be lightly damp, not soaking wet when you wrap the cakes, so you may need to squeeze out any excess liquor). Wrap each cake tightly. Cover loafs with wax paper and foil before transferring to a large Ziploc bag. Store in the refrigerator for up to 6 to 8 weeks (it can often last even longer). You can serve this cake right after it has cooled, but the flavors improve greatly with time (I recommend several days or up to a week, at minimum). Unwrap and re-soak the cheesecloth once a week.
- For Garnishing: If desired, you can top the fruitcake with a light apricot glaze and whole pecans before serving. Note: I don't recommend glazing the cake if you wish to continue to wrap and age the fruitcake. To Prepare the Glaze: Combine the apricot preserves and water in a small saucepan. Bring to a light simmer, stirring until the glaze is shiny and thin. If it is too thin for glazing, reduce to desired consistency. If it becomes too thick, add a teaspoon of water. Brush the tops of the fruitcakes with apricot glaze and garnish with whole pecans.
- Serving Notes: Slice fruit cake with a serrated knife. Serve on its own or spread with a small amount of salted butter.
Notes
- Be sure to use unsweetened dried fruit for best results.
- Many readers have had success substituting different varieties of dried fruit in this recipe; if doing this, please keep in mind the tartness and sweetness of various fruits for good balance.
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